There’s nothing necessarily wrong with Blake-construction shoes (the method used on all traditional Italian models). They are just more delicate and will not last as long as Goodyear-welted shoes.
The same could be said about suits made from super-180s wool or even super-150s. They are lighter, more delicate and possibly more elegant. But they will not last as long as an English tweed suit.
I have explained in depth previously what Blake construction is (see posting here). But in brief, the shoe’s upper is folded over at the edge and sewn directly onto the sole. With Goodyear-welted shoes the upper is sewn onto a new ridge of leather, before attaching that to the sole. Most English shoes and their American heirs use Goodyear welts. They make the shoe harder wearing and tougher. They also make it easier and quicker to resole.
The advantage of Blake construction is that the sole can be cut a lot closer to the upper, leaving less of a lip and making the shoe sleeker. The width of a sole around the upper varies among Goodyear-welted shoes, but none are quite as thin as Blake models.
Blake shoes get a lot of stick on style forums. The biggest reason is that they are not as long-lasting as Goodyear – but this is the case for lots of different types of clothing, from silk socks to summer suits. As Nathan Brown at London shoemaker Lodger comments:
“If you go and buy a lightweight suit from Kiton it’s not going to last as long as a Huntsman shooting jacket – those things last for centuries. But that doesn’t mean the Italian suit isn’t beautiful and it doesn’t mean it isn’t worth the money.”
In my opinion, the problem is that style forums can really only discuss practical matters. They are great for recommendations on tailors, news about discounts and explorations of sartorial history. But you can’t discuss taste. It is subjective. A full English brogue on the Tricker’s model is very ugly to some; to others, a pointy Italian slip-on is the height of crass. Neither is right or wrong.
So forum discussions of shoes tend to focus on the quality of construction. They swap experiences on longevity and value for money. On those grounds, Goodyear-welted shoes will usually win. In fact, what you want is a cordovan boot with a triple sole – it’ll last a lifetime.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
a very well written post, i agree !
ReplyDeleteI agree with your final comments. Yet I'm submitting the need to have shoes of different construction and different design style for the right occasion.
ReplyDeletegreat post
ReplyDeletei could definitely go for some well-designed triple-soled cordovan boots though; one could do worse for a go-to option.
good
ReplyDeleteThat is a kind of suits that everyone's wants to have.
ReplyDeleteDo you have any Summer Suits there? I just want to buy it for my sister and brother, can you show me some of its recent design?
Great shoes on the photo, real classic. I wear only classical Italian shoes.
ReplyDeleteVery interesting post indeed! Simon could have concluded as follows: "a cordovan boots with a triple sole on the Tricker's model" and his point would have been clearer!
ReplyDeleteYet, it wouldn't surprise anyone if Simon himself happened to have a Tricker's country boots! Therefore the real issue is whether or not in matter of style one were ready to embrace the kind of cosmopolite aesthete's perspective he is adamantly advocating on his great blog!
I agree with this well written post. I wear Berlutis, and I have .. ahem ... large feet. The Blake sole gives a much sleeker look, which I like, but which also helps to "slim" my feet.
ReplyDeleteI have seven pairs, make sure to look after them, only wear them once a week and the they wear just fine.
I do own several pairs of Allen Edmunds shoes with the conventional sole, but while more robust, they don't see the light of day that much, as I don't care for the aesthetics as much.
Hi Simon, need some advice as someone who clearly understands the pros & cons of various types of shoe. I usually wear a goodyear welted shoe (C&J/Churches) & love doing so however i have unfortunately had an accident resulting in torn knee ligaments.
ReplyDeleteIve been told by a specialist to wear soft shoes with a low heel (for at least a year while the damage heals), so this has left me in a bit of a quandry as to what kind of shoes to wear when i go out. I found a brand called 'harrys of london' in burlington arcade which seems quite expensive for what they produce which is a trainer type shoe with a rubber sole. Have you had any experience with the brand? Would you recommend them?
Thanks, Rupesh
Hi Rupesh,
DeleteI wouldn't recommend them, no. There is little there that is new, but a lot of branding.
I suppose you could try normal Goodyear shoes, but with a rubber sole?
Simon
Thanks Simon, think a Goodyear welted shoe won't work unfortunately a the heel stack is invariably 1inch high which is too much. Are there any smart loafer manufacturers you could recommend me which are known for comfort with a low heel, Im not bothered a out longevity of the shoe as I he to god to be recovered in a year or so?
ReplyDeleteRupesh
Not really, but check out the regular manufacturers and some will have loafers with smaller heels etc
DeleteI have yet to see a goodyear welted shoe produced in Brazil. All of our shoes are blake, as you can see in this video:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UbpUI3HLsk
Does that mean that for us, a goodyear welted shoe would be impossible to resole and therefore a blake stitched one would be the durable option?
If that's true, the two would be just as durable as each other. Blake might even be better, if someone had the necessary machinery there to resole them. It is possible to resole Blake, just not as much and few have the machinery.
DeleteThough you could always buy Goodyear and send it overseas back to its original maker.