Wednesday, 29 July 2009

How to wear brown shoes

I am surprised how frequently the questions I am asked centre around one object of clothing: brown shoes. This is because men’s certainty about the alternative (black shoes) creates a spectrum of worries as to how, when and where they should be worn.

It’s really not that difficult.

brown-shoes-gray

First, forget all that ‘never brown in town’ rubbish. Do you wear a dark suit to work everyday (usually a three-piece), keep the jacket on throughout and always pair it with a sober tie? Then you’re breaking far more recent rules than the brown/town one – which was established when brown was a sure sign that a man was loping off to his country estate after work.

Modern business attire is far more flexible. Understand the spirit of archaic rules, rather than blindly following the letter.

Second, black shoes are an English thing. Yes they mean business everywhere, but other countries (Italy, US) accepted the benefits of brown leather years ago. You wear an Armani suit and a Ralph Lauren shirt. Why stick obstinately to an English tradition?

So, what to wear them with? Navy and mid-grey are my favourites. Avoid lighter blues and darker greys (charcoal). There is no particular rationale for this, but those tones benefit in particular from having a colour in the shoe they are worn with. Black is not a colour; it may serve to enrich the colour it is worn with, but it is not a colour itself.

Those are some basic cloth suggestions. The important thing to remember is that the same guidelines on shoes elsewhere also apply to brown – indeed if anything they are more important there.

One is that your shoes should always be darker than your suit trousers. If tan shoes are being worn more casually, there is some leeway there. But don’t wear tan shoes with a navy suit. Try a chocolate brown instead and you’ll realise what the Italians are going on about – why they embolden each other.

(I have seen several men in recent days actually wearing black suits with tan shoes. I only hope that has happened through a lack of thought. How someone could think those two would complement each other is beyond me.)

A second guideline to bear in mind is that brown shoes are still not as smart as black. Yes, they are accepted; but no, they are not a replacement. If you’re in doubt about what to wear to a meeting, wear black. If you’re in doubt what to wear with odd trousers, wear brown. Use your judgement and aesthetic nouse for everything in between.

Some people still dislike brown shoes for being inelegant. Part of the reason I like them so much is probably the greater possibilities for patina and polish. Whatever your reason, think through their use logically using these guidelines and you can’t go wrong.

38 comments:

  1. Guest Comments »

    1.

    I agree wholeheartedly with everything.
    I hoped that my work colleague who wore black trousers & tan shoes had got dressed in the dark or something, but now he’s a repeat offender in this regard so he — the horror — must mean it. Sheesh.


    Comment by Paul Hardy — July 28, 2009 #

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  2. Another great nugget of style wisdom.

    Quick Q: do you have info on the trousers and shoes in the image? They're both gorgeous

    keep up the good work!

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  3. Hi Neil,

    The shoes are from Lodger. They are beautiful, though I should disclose that I also work for Lodger editing their Gentleman's Corner site (check it out).

    Not sure about the trousers. But you can find that kind of grey flannel at most tailors.

    Simon

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  4. Great advice and encouragement, as always.

    Let us not forget burgundy shoes! The red tones of burgundy, merlot, oxblood, and "cordovan" [sic] go nicely with navy, most blues, and cool grays, as well as rose-tinted browns. Such shoes also pair fabulously with clothes that have a red overcheck in them.

    (Strictly speaking, cordovan is a kind of leather; it is traditionally dyed maroon, and the name of the leather has transferred to the color it is most often found in.)

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  5. totally agree, brown/tan and black can never go, EXCEPT you see these horse riding black boots with brown at the top that just looks amazing in my humble opinion... bit off topic... haha

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  6. rnssnc,

    Of course black and brown/tan don't go together--unless you're an Airedale, a Welsh Terrier, or a Guinness and a Bass ;-).

    But you wouldn't wear black pants except as part of your tuxedo, and who ever heard of brown or tan patent leather opera pumps?

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  7. Sorry Simon, your picture just demonstrates WHY brown doesn't go with grey! However, with blue is a different matter, but it will always look less formal.

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  8. Nice. Its like an SEO Bicol, Full of fun and excitement.

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  9. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  10. nice information thanks for sharing this wonderful information. I will follow your tips.

    ________________
    Seo Bicol

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  11. In some places (Paris, for example; in Rome too), it is often considered very inelegant to wear black shoes with navy. The reason is: one should never two colours that are very similar but not identical (the ban also applies to wearing two different shades of dark grey, or two "blacks" which are not exactly identical). For similar reasons; I think the brown shoes should definitely contrast slightly with the trousers (hence why brown shoes very seldom, if ever, work with black or charcoal).

    http://davidikus.blogspot.com/

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  12. Simple rule here folks:
    Blue suit » brown shoes
    Non-dark grey » brown shoes
    Dark grey » black shoes
    Black suit » black shoes

    If it isn't dark grey or black, then go brown.

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  13. Brown shoes go with black trousers, as long as your wearing a brown belt to match

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  14. I'm afraid I couldn't disagree more strongly

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  15. But what color belt? Black or brown?

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  16. Match your belt vaguely. Don't worry about getting it exact, but not a black belt with brown shoes certainly

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  17. Simon,

    I do also like to pair my mid-grey suit with tan.

    Do you think Oxblood is acceptable in a work environment? If so, what colour suits could you pair them with?

    Thanks

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  18. Yes, I like oxblood but best with navy.

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    Replies
    1. With a "bone" (off white) suit, would cordovan shoes/belt work well with a pink shirt to tie it all together?

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    2. It could work, yes. Nicer to have a lighter colour with an off-white suit though

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    3. Recommendations for a shirt color? I was told white is not good and I should go darker than the suit itself for contrast. Thoughts?

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    4. Pale to mid-mid blue. Most versatile colour there is

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  19. Hi Simon, I need to choose a leather colour for my next pair of Australian RM Williams elastic sided boots to go with dark blue jeans. They can make any boot in any of 'their' leathers and with more or less any sole. I have a pair of their black boots but they are too dark for jeans, especially in an Australian climate. I'd like something that doesn't need to look too cared for but looks better with age. I'd appreciate you spending four or five hours of your time looking through their website to match leather with sole colour/type.
    I fancied their Sandstone Craftsman boot but a little darker, but the Sandstone colour is lighter than the dark blue jeans. Over to you and thanks.

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  20. Hi Simon, RM Williams hand make made to measure boots and claim thalf for over four million combinations, hence the possible time sink. Luckily, I'm toying with only three variables - 1. Elastic sided boot in Tambo (wide fitting), 2. Brown ( casual, but not too dark or too flat), 3. Sole type: leather in natural (light in colour) or dark brown. I like the idea of a boot that looks and feels well made but is not too precious. Kangaroo in tan looks good in print but is a little too grainy and slightly Thin and saggy. The thicker, oilier leathers don't take to being polished and are unlined.
    Our recent Prime Minister Kevin Rudd wears RMs in black, they are quite the thing here in Australia. Steven

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    Replies
    1. I think the confusion was you suggesting I spend 4/5 hours on the site. Never mind. I like the Kangaroo in tan, personally. Great leather, kanga

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    2. Well I have a great pair of chelsea boots from Redwing in a lighter brown tone.Really quite marvelous and very confortable and not to be seen that often.Elastic on the sides and a mixture of leather and rubber soles.

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  21. Walnut shoes with a navy suit is not only acceptable, but a classic look.

    Also, the term "black" for suits is used too liberally. I assume charcoal grey was what was meant. Black suits are worn only in the evening or to funerals, mob hits or Dickensian period reenactments.

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    Replies
    1. They were, unfortunately, black. I'm afraid on walnut I can't agree it's either stylish or classic.

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  22. I really would not recommend that you do this! Brown and Black clash, in my opinion. There are some that would disagree with me, and you can even find garments that combine black and brown patterns on the fabric. However, I really think it is in bad taste. Especially when combining black shoes with brown pants. That's a no-no.

    There are great brown dress shoes that you can pair with brown pants, and they should be a staple in your wardrobe!

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  23. simon, thank you for advice! What about "smart casual" cocktail receptions in clubs or hotel bars after 6pm? Does the old rule: no brown shoes after dark still works? Particular options: Brown monks with a buckle. Tan semi derbies?

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    1. At an event like that, black is really best in the evening. Then again, that is presuming it is the kind of event and you are the kind of person that would be wearing something formal, such as a suit.

      If you had to choose between those options, go for the brown - it's darker

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  24. I disagree, the key is contrast and setting, in a formal setting black shoes is a must, however in a more relaxed setting, wine bar, casual dinner then a dark / black suit goes quite well with a light brown shoe, look online and you will see that it is becoming increasingly common to see this combination (Ryan Gosling in crazy stupid love) , David Beckham and a few others have rocked this look successfully . I have personally worn a black slim fitting boss suit with tan brown loake shoes and got many complements. To make this combination work ALWAYS match your leathers, so wear a belt of the same colour as your shoes, perhaps brown club-masters or watch band, no tie and a couple of buttons undone. It looks great.
    Men are increasingly trying new thing sartorially we must embrace change and not stick to convention.

    REMEMBER FIT IS KING. Get that right and almost everything is permissable...........almost :-)

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    1. Thanks Phyls. I'm afraid I will continue to think that a tan belt or shoes looks terrible with black. And the Ryan Gosling and David Beckham are not much to imitate. But each to his own.

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  25. So with this suit, I shouldn't wear a dark brown shoe or boot? http://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=85424&vid=1&pid=905587002

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    1. They would have to be very dark brown

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  26. Ok, fashion tip time, have a pair of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jasper-Conran-Brown-Chukka-Boots/dp/B00A7HDD6Y (sorry only place I could find an image), will be wearing them with Grey trousers, dark grey but not charcoal, belt similar colour to shoes with silver buckle, shirt is the awkward part, I do have a Purple and Pink Savoy Guilds shirt, that I can wear silver Cufflinks with.......or is this just way off the mark.....

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    1. Sounds ok Mark. I don't think the shirt is that tricky though - you could wear pretty much anything with that. Not a big fan of purple and pink but could work, though cufflinks would go better with a more formal ensemble. And certainly a jacket

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