One solution, certainly to the second problem, is the trousers being produced by Ed Morel in
At over $200, they are not cheap by high street standards. But the workmanship is superb and they’re a lot cheaper than Kiton. The handstitching or tacking around the waistband, pockets and fly is impressive, and everything from the thread used for the sewing (Gutterman) to the buttons (French horn) is quality. Each pair comes with spare buttons and taping to go around the (obviously unfinished) bottoms.
I’m a particular fan of the closing at the front, which features two buttons on the inside and a long tab that slips underneath the first belt loop.
There will be both slim and classic fits, though the initial first samples (details here) are all in the slim fit. While not aggressively narrow, I did find that I needed the 34 inch rather than 32 (I am actually a 33, so either way an alteration is required) so that the space in the seat and thigh were sufficient. Then again, my tailor Russell is always telling me I have a particularly prominent posterior, so you might not have the same problem.
The colours available are slightly unusual while still classic, the brown I got (pictured) a slightly lighter tone than one would assume and equally the air force blue that I will likely get next. Lovely texture on the cashmere option as well.
Some readers of Style Forum, where Ed launched this product, have commented that they would prefer side straps to belt loops. I’m torn but I marginally prefer belt loops with odd trousers – the ability to accessorise the belt just outweighs the obvious practicality of the straps on fit over time. On suits, I always have side straps.
Eventually Ed will have product with side straps, though, as well as the classic cut and some other products like seven-fold ties. They will all appear on the website, which is under construction. In the meantime anyone interested can contact Ed on email@example.com or through Style Forum.
Another, earlier review here.