Well, my favourite pair of shoes, the Oundles from Edward Green, are back from refurbishment and looking pretty darn good. As requested, here are a few pictures of them in their new, refreshed state.The upper is unchanged, save for a few layers of meticulous polish. It still has that antiqued look created by dozens of layers of polish over the past few years. But the sole and heel are entirely new - clean and hard and ready to be worn - and the sock inside is new too. So my personal imprint (and therefore bespoke comfort) is retained in the insole and the upper. But the rest is new.
EG have also added in a full-length sock rather than the half sock it originally had. Because if I had to choose, they were a little big rather than a little small.It's a blessed relief after seeing them torn apart just a few weeks ago.
The two previous posts on the refurbishment, how the shoes are stripped down, followed by their repair, can be seen by clicking on those hyperlinks.
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they came out beautifully! that leather finish is so timeless and right. hey, where can i get some women's loafers slip on with leather fringe? i wish i could find really well healed lovely shoes to go with my new izod dress. have a lovely weekend.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful. Which last?
ReplyDeleteI'm curious whether Edward Green or comparable shoemakers (I hesitate to call them 'brands,' a word which now would seem to rob these artisans of their excellence) install metal taps on the toes of their shoes at customer request. It is my impression that doing so is the best way to ensure maximum life out of a pair of soles.
ReplyDeleteThanks Laguna, 888.
ReplyDeleteArctic, most will yes. I know some (eg Alfred Sargent) prefer not to as it can be hard to ensure their longevity, but most are happy to do so. Personally, I dislike it and if anything would add a couple of rows of nails instead. Less noisy too.
Is the application of a "half-sole" encouraged or discouraged on shoes of this or any other quality?
ReplyDeleteI personally have been a blind advocate(at least for my own shoes). They allow me to be much more flexible with regard to the weather and protect the original leather/shoe from refurbishment. Would u have a more educated opinion on this practice?
Hello, great article. What would you say to: before wearing a pair of shoes for the first time, having a rubber sole or any other man-made material added? I simply do not like to see the leather at the bottom of the shoe being worn down! Thanks.
ReplyDeleteLeather is always preferably, in terms of fit and breathability. Rubber should only be for wet conditions etc. Fine shoes deserve good leather soles.
ReplyDeleteSimon
hi simon, really enjoy reading your blog and have learnt a great deal about tailoring from you.
ReplyDeleteim looking to buy a pair of EG oundles, but am a bit concerned by a few bits and bobs ive read on forums, saying the stiching on the vamp sometimes causes issues as this is where the forefoot flexes (and apparantly EG changed the design between a previous similar model to try and avoid this). HAve you found this at all or have you found the stiching low on the vamp is irrelevant to the comfort of the shoe?
Thanks in advance, Andy
I haven't found it a problem at all Andy, and have noticed no change between this old pair and a new pair I got this year. However, be aware that monk-strap shoes are always going to be harder to get a perfect fit than a lace-up, as there is less versatility to your foot. Not as bad as a slip-on, but always worse than an oxford or derby.
ReplyDeleteCan you try one on somewhere to see? The important thing is that your toes are comfortable and your heel does not slip.
Simon
thanks for the reply simon, glad you said that as i love the design of the shoe. do you know when the oundle was designed by EG, is it an old design?
ReplyDeleteyes im based in london so i'll take a trip down to jermyn street and try a pair on. the colour of the pair you had refurbished is fantastic, a kind of chilli colour? does EG offer the oundle in this colour as standard or was that pair mto?
andrew
Andrew, I don't know how old the design of the shoe is, but it's been in the collection a while.
ReplyDeleteMy pair is a straightforward chestnut, ready to wear. Most of the colour is down to years of wear and polishing.
Simon
ok thanks simon.
ReplyDeleteA
Simon
ReplyDeleteReally interesting article. I have been wearing Berlutis - ready to wear and a couple of bespoke pairs - for many years. Of late, I have considering looking at an English bespoke shoe.
From looking at your site, it would appear Edward Green, George Cleverley and John Lobb would be the three to consider, or have I missed anyone worth putting on the list? I think the Lobb pricing is slightly on the high side for me, but the first two seem to be relatively reasonably priced.
Keep up the good work, great blog!
Hi FSP,
ReplyDeleteEdward Green don't do bespoke, merely made to order. I would say you should consider, among English bespoke makers, Cleverley, Lobb and Gaziano & Girling.
Simon
this is a fascinating post simon. one question which occurred to me was, you mentioned having a full sock put in rather than a half sock. any idea what the material is that shoe makers use on the footbed which you can see when there is a half sock used (a full sock obscures it)? its looks like a white hard cement like substance, is this put on the leather insole for protection?
ReplyDeletemicheal
Michael I don't know what shoes you have, but in mine it's the leather insole.
ReplyDeleteSimon, one of the reasons for sending shoes to the original makers for resoling is that they would have the exact same lasts to put in the shoes for the operation. However from your three articles I don't seem to see any photos of the original lasts being inserted into your shoes. Any comments?
ReplyDeleteVincent
The last is in there Vincent, even if not photographed. Though as these are not bespoke there are quite a few Oundle lasts, size 9 around.
ReplyDelete