Monday, 28 June 2010

That delayed Anderson & Sheppard


As requested, here is my Anderson & Sheppard suit. A 13-ounce, grey Prince of Wales cloth with pale blue overcheck, made up into three-piece suit with outer right ticket pocket.

The two things I noticed immediately were the high armholes and gentler shoulder. The former gives you greater freedom of movement but - owing to the large armhole - a smooth top to the sleeve. The latter is more of a style issue, and you could argue one that suits me less given I have sloping shoulders already. But I have jackets with even less padding and I think it's just a question of the look. I deliberately had this commissioned in a cloth that means I can wear the jacket separately on its own.

I was also impressed with the pattern matching - something highlighted by the detailed check. On the jacket the matching across the front piece, welt and then pocket flaps is nice, particularly across both the main and ticket pocket.

And I noticed that the trousers are fastened with a button inside the waist, one more above the fly and then a metal hook at the end. I've never seen a button in the middle like this - usually it's a hook in the middle and button on the end, or hook in both places. Mr Hitchcock says it is their classic fastening for a single breasted and I can certainly see that it makes sense - there is more freedom of movement in the middle, above the fly, as the buttonhole is horizontal.

I had two fittings, a forward and then a final. At the second fitting the only changes were a narrowing of the skirt and a slight shortening of one sleeve. The accuracy of the fit at the first fitting was impressive, particularly given that it involved only a quick set of measurements by Mr Hitchcock. The cloth here looks a little ruffled - but then it has yet to settle to my shape.

Shirt from Emma Willis, tie from Hermes and handkerchief from Sciarpa.

15 comments:

  1. Well done. Son of ,HRH Prince Michael of Kent?

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  2. without a douby the blue double brested wedding suit is so much more you.Dont know but somehow this seems a bit less stylish not what I expected, perhaps it that you have a better relationship with your other tailor who realy knows you and your body.Some acient wit once said
    find a tailor that loves you and you will have wonderful clothing and less in the bank.

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  3. Very nice. More detailled photos would be much appreciated.

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  4. Immaculately cut suit, if I may say.

    Must have set you back a couple of grand though.

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  5. Simon,

    Beautiful piece, and yes, the pattern matching is spot-on. I've purchased jackets simply on the basis of great pattern matching.

    Was this to be the one you were going to wear to the wedding? If so, while it is beautiful, I think the navy DB was much more apropro.

    Exceptional blog (only one I subscribe to), keep up the great writing, and don't be shy about some stateside material!!

    ~Chris

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  6. Anonymous number one, I think to be fair my double breasted has been worn to my shape over a year of wear, while this is the first time I've put on the A&S suit. It will soften and shape more.

    Simon

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  7. Gorgeous.
    I like the shoulders. Not too "sloped"-- adds length to neck.

    White pocket handkerchief may be correct, but a bit too predictable.

    Would like to see an element of surprise -- some unexpected colour/pattern. Would make the entire ensemble sing!

    Cheers,
    --JW

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  8. Yeah - seriously, really looks great. I love the colors and pattern.

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  9. Honestly doesn't look that good. This isn't drape - its just a loose coat.

    Perhaps its the pic itself. Would you be able to post additional photographs?

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  10. Agreed - the Navy DB is infintiely more stylish I'm afraid. Something not quite right here - it's simply not a flattering cut...

    Lapels, pockets, body of the jacket, I can't put my finger on it...I wish I could say that the sum is greater than the parts but in this case I feel they all contribute to reduce from the whole...

    It's the sillouhette and here it's lacking.

    J


    J

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  11. You're broad across the beam (the lower beam) and need something in the shoulders on both. However, this suit is the business and, a little more relaxed and I'd have assumed that you were Prince Michael's secret son.

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  12. Hi Simon--
    I love the fact that you a walking, talking sartorial lab. (As in laboratory, not Labrador.) You put yourself out there, willing to risk critical feedback. (Most of us make bad calls from time to time, or at the very least, don't always get it together as well as we could.) Your petri dish serves as a looking glass to better see ourselves. Very grateful. Thanks!
    --John
    Grrr-- For some reason am forced to post as anonymous. Won't accept URL.

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  13. Like a few other posters I felt that something was a little "off" with the jacket. I think I've figured out what it is. The jacket is not intended to be a 3-roll-2, yet you have the top button undone. It throws off the balance a little bit. It might also benefit from a little more waist supression?

    That being said, you look better dressed than 99% of most guys! Keep up the great posts.

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  14. Tom, I'm afraid you're wrong it is cut as a three roll two. I think I'm just standing awkwardly (god knows why). My arms are rather thrust forward and as such are pulling the chest together.

    It's not easy this standing business.

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  15. Maybe it's your arm position, but for those of us under 5'10" and fit or slim I always think a more form fitting silhouette is preferred. I would suggest a little more waist suppression. It will lengthen you a bit. Of course most of my suits are cut in the American style with little waist suppression and my Korean trained tailor is loathe to bring it in too much. That said, on a bespoke garment, I would prefer a more formed waist and side. That said, there is a really long discussion on Style Forum right now about A&S and the significant side structure and suppression they provided on a forum member's new sport jacket.

    I like the shoulder quite a bit and am drawn to the A&S, Mahon, DeBoise shoulder. It definitely looks good.

    I would love to see a closer view of the fabric and perhaps a full length shot of you in the suit.

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