There are very few suits with which I would not naturally wear brown shoes - a deep, burnished chocolate looks better with everything from navy herringbone to grey check.But charcoal is an exception. The only other is probably black, which is restricted to evening wear (though the French have a curious fondness for the black suit).
Charcoal brings out little in brown shoes: something about the darkness and simplicity of the colour demands black calf. There is little subtlety or movement to a dark grey suit. Even a mid-grey worsted with little surface detail has variation in tone as it moves which complements a brown shoe, such is its usual patina.
And of course charcoal is just very dark, likely the darkest and most devoid of colour in a man's wardrobe. If one's shoes look best when they are darker than the trousers above them, black is the only option.
This suitability of charcoal and black is particularly true for a flannel suit, as in the illustration above (Ralph Lauren, A/W 2010). The only exception here might be a dark brown suede shoe, perhaps a slip-on, the matching of textures enough to distract from the disparity in colour.
Few men, particularly in London, wear brown shoes well. One recommendation I would have for them is to always wear black shoes with charcoal.
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As I understand it, the 'rule' in London is 'No brown in town' - Especially not in The City.
ReplyDeleteI suppose it's acceptable if one is in a more creative industry
Rather like not wearing white after Labor Day in the US, that rule has pretty much no relevance in London today. It should be replaced with one that just says - care about what you're wearing. Most men fail.
ReplyDeleteThe other option that one might consider with charcoal is the anthracite grey Berluti Andy loafers that appear next to your post in the form of an ad.
ReplyDeleteWhilst it breaks your rule of shoes being darker than the trouser, it might just work...
I think that you are absolutely wrong, SC. There are whole enclaves of men (with whom you evidently do not mix) amongst whom black shoes in town (and I mean for work and serious play) are essential. Thet regard brown shoes in town as the mark of a bounder and an absolute shower. The fourth estate might, I suppose, always wear what it chooses...
ReplyDeleteTMR - I agree, that might look very fine. Obviously, talking in brown and black only is just the biggest blocks of colour options.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous - I have spent my career writing for lawyers, bankers, accountants and CEOs, some of the most conservative sections of society, all of whom usually have to wear black shoes to work. But they don't do it out of a style choice.
Besides, I'm pretty sure that rule was about what was worn above the ankles.
Simon
After months of wearing brown shoes with my dark grey suit, I switched to my black Oxfords and noticed immediately how much better the combination looked.
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