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Bespoke shoes at Cleverley 12: The Compendium

23 November 2010
 

Following a few requests for links to all the posts in the Cleverley bespoke series, here they are listed below.

I also thought readers would like to hear George Glasgow’s recommendations on wearing bespoke shoes for the first time. He suggested to:

- Only wear them for a few hours the first five to six times you wear them, perhaps getting them out in the evening when you are at home and wearing them then. This will allow the calf to open up and adjust nicely to the feet.
- Leave a few days between each of the first few wears. Certainly more than one. You want to make sure the leather is 100% dry before wearing them the next time.
- Always use the shoe trees!

1 – Measuring
In which George Glasgow measures the feet and comments on my instep. The walrus and the carpenter are also quoted.

 

 

 

 

 

2 – Design
In which the leathers, model and design are picked, and George explains the importance of balance in an elegant commission.

 

 

 

 

 

3 – Last making
In which Teemu Leppanen explains the personal relationship of a lastmaker to the fitter, whilst labouring over a lathe.

 

 

 

 

4 – Refining the last
In which Teemu’s lasting moves from technical measurement to artistic expertise

 

 

 

 

 

5 – Clicking
In which John Carnera cuts the pieces of the leather, upper and lining, demonstrating in the process why so much of the calf is wasted

 

 

 

 

 

6 – Checking
In which Dominic Casey begins the lasting of the upper, stretching it on, checking the dimensions and leaving it to shape to its last

 

 

 

 

7 – Lasting
In which Andy lasts the shoe, under a picture of him doing so for Prince Charles, under the tutorship of George Cleverley himself

 

 

 

 

 

8 – First fitting
In which George Glasgow slips the soleless shoe on to get an idea of fit, and it is decided that the vamp is a little too roomy

 

 

 

 

9 – Second fitting
In which Dominic decides the problem has been corrected and the importance of considering how the arches will fit is emphasised

 

 

 

 

 

10 – Soles and heels
In which Andy stitches on the sole and builds the heels, plus there’s a nice shot of some black crocodile boots

 

 

 

 

11 – Finishing
In which the shoes are completed, Adam Law staining, inking and polishing them to perfection

 

 

Number 12, this post, includes advice on wearing bespoke shoes for the first time. There will no doubt be a number 13 that examines how they have worn (once I’m allowed to do so all day, that is).