Friday, 18 March 2011
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 2
The second post in the Henry Poole series, this illustrates the measuring being done by cutter Craig Featherstone – with Simon Cundey taking notes. (Previous post on the cloth is here.)
Craig is refreshingly honest with his references to the various aspects of my figuration. None of the initialisation you find with other cutters: my prominent seat is described as such, rather than being a PS, BS or LS. Prominent shoulder blades similarly described, as are sloping shoulders and hollow back.
Craig is also one who likes to see every aspect of you. He likes to measure on a preferred jacket as well as on the body itself, and he takes photographs to remind himself of figuration – back, front and side, all standing in front of the door. These things are so much less intrusive when everyone has an iPhone.
Both the photos and measuring with a jacket on are fairly standard at Henry Poole. I have to say the latter works best if you are wearing bespoke, and indeed like the fit of it (a little tip for anyone going to a tailor for the first time), while the former is of benefit to anyone that seizes up under a measuring tape. No matter how many times I have a pattern cut, I can’t manage to stand at ease consistently. Something about the tautness of the tape being held against you. The same doesn’t seem to happen with a photograph.
Credit should go to Andy Barnham, the photographer, both for the quality of his shots and the fact that he managed to not be in any of the photographs despite standing in a six-foot square room with a mirror on facing walls.
Next: The cutting