Friday, 8 April 2011
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 5
First fitting this week on the Prince of Wales double-breasted suit being made at Henry Poole - in the Poole house check with characteristic burgundy overcheck.
Craig Featherstone, who cut the suit, is joined here for the fitting by master cutter Alex Cooke. Both Alex and Craig like to take apart a basted fitting when they can, in order to get the balance right. They rip up the basting stitches and then re-pin it on the customer. This is much easier with two people, so that one person can hold the cloth while the other pins. The alternative is to chalk on the changes, re-cut and then see how it looks at the next fitting. Less fuss, but it can lead to needless fittings.
In my case Alex and Craig were keen to re-pin the back, where more room needed to be put into the small of my back. The foreparts will be taken in, to retain the shape at the waist.
We also ripped off the collar to get the lie of the lapel right and shortened the right sleeve by 3/8 of an inch.
Next - hand finishing on the trousers
Previous posts: the cloth, measuring, cutting and making.
Photography: Andy Barnham