Friday, 6 May 2011
Prince of Wales at Henry Poole: Part 8
A second forward fitting on the Henry Poole double-breasted last week, with Craig hoping that this would be ready to finish off and deliver.
A few last tweaks were required, however. The chest still needed more clearing under the right arm, a problem pointed out on the previous post. John had been a little tentative here and the adjustment needed to be taken that little bit further. The drape on the back under the arm also had to be taken in a tiny bit, showing there had been too much fullness on that side both at front and back.
The only other small change was shortening the right sleeve by a quarter inch. Again, the previous adjustment had not been taken far enough. Craig would always hope to complete a suit with two fittings, but it can sometimes take three or four. Let’s hope this one stays at three.
Craig and I also decided to finish off the jacket with two buttons rather than the six originally planned. I had this style on my first ever bespoke suit – a grey flannel DB from Edward Tam in Hong Kong – and I’ve liked it ever since. The effect might prove a little too rakish, but it might also be a nice contemporary counterweight to what is a very classic suit.
And you can always add on buttonholes and buttons later. You can’t take them out.