Monday, 1 August 2011

Choppin & Lodge cotton suit


I've learnt two things about cotton suits - or gabardine, to be more precise.

First, it is an achingly comfortable cloth. The trousers, in particular, are soft and forgiving yet have a smooth finish that makes them smarter than corduroy or moleskin. I plan to have more casual trousers made in gabardine for next summer. It is more comfortable and versatile than linen (though perhaps less formal).

Second, cotton has no give. You don't realise how much stretch worsted wool has until until you wear cotton. The jacket is made to the same pattern as my other suits from Graham Browne, yet it feels tight whenever I'm moving or have a hand in the trouser pocket. James, the new front of house at Anderson & Sheppard, told me he dislikes cotton because you constantly feel like you're fighting against it. I know what he means now.



While this is not an insignificant disadvantage, I love this suit; I feel grateful to Richard of Choppin & Lodge for encouraging me to try it. It has been worn four of five times and already feels like an old friend. It goes well with knitwear, even just a polo-collared sweater, and received more notice from my wife than any suit I have got in years. I would actually wear this at the weekend, where I wouldn't wear a flannel or tweed suit (a jacket at most). It feels like a knock-around suit worthy of the name. 

The shirt lining to the inside works well - it is a nice little touch of flair. But lining the arms in it was a silly idea. Shirt sleeves stick worse to that than they would have done if it was unlined. So the lining will be replaced.

Finally, the photo. I can only apologise for the photo. One of these days I'll stop looking like a numpty, my arms stapled to my side. Thanks Richard, by the way, for finding just enough glare to remove all the hair on the top of my head.

Previous post on the making of the suit here.

Contact Choppin & Lodge from their website. Suit cost £875. Oh, and if anyone's interested: white shirt from Turnbull & Asser, grey one-piece tie from Kiton, white linen handkerchief from Simonnot Goddard.

14 comments:

  1. That is one beautiful suit. The 'just' slightly oversized patch pockets lend a wonderful symmetry. Well done!

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  2. Dear Simon,

    great posting! A gabardine suit is on my list of things for next year - yours is indeed a nice encouragement.

    What you are describing regarding lack of movement due to the material might cry for a different construction with very high armholes (A&S or Napoli style).

    cheers, david

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  3. That is a nice casual suit. The buttonholes are marvellous. The lack of give in cotton that you mention is something I also failed to account for, and now my trousers are a little tighter than I would like when sitting. You'd think this property would be mentioned before making up a garment.

    The camera glare hair removal is something I can empathise with. It's happening to me all too often these days and causing me to avoid the camera!

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  4. Fantastic suit...and where are those excellent shoes from??

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  5. From my experience with separate cotton jackets and trousers, a bit more 'give' will occur, but without resiliency of wool.

    Personally, I would wear this suit with a pale pink polo shirt and brown slipons. (Too much the gigolo? --Your opinion, please.)

    Just curious... Why did you pass on linen?
    --JC

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  6. David - the armholes here were cut quite high. Perhaps it would be higher with A&S, but then James doesn't seem to think so!

    JC - I'd go with a white, long-sleeved polo shirt, which is my current casual staple, but I get where you're coming from.

    I do have one linen suit, a brown DB, which I had made last summer and am in fact wearing today. Scabal cloth, herringbone with a subtle blue in the weave. And I plan a more classic yellow linen suit for next summer.

    Anonymous - the shoes are from Cleverley and have been covered on the blog a lot. Just search and you should find the various posts.

    Cheers

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  7. Dear Simon,

    I forgot to ask you - which fabric did you use for the suit (manufacturer & weight)?

    Many thanks, David

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  8. Hey Simon,

    Just thought I'd take the chance and say how much I enjoy reading your blog.

    A quick recommendation around photos: instead of standing stock still in the middle of the street, why not take some 'action' shots, walking past the camera just to add that element of realism? I'm sure that one could still grasp the mechanics and feel of the suit from that sort of shot.
    You can do some closer shots whilst standing still to capture details and so on.

    Just an idea!

    Cheers, James

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  9. Thanks James, and that's a good point. I suppose people into their bespoke usually want to see the fall and line of the trousers, exactly where the cuff is, the shoulders etc, which are much easier to see standing still.

    That said, I did a shoot with a Japanese magazine last week and they took some good shots of me walking, so maybe I'll try it.

    Thanks for your kind comments on the blog

    Simon

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  10. Oh, and the cloth is Harrison's, Mersolair bunch, 325 grammes

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  11. I enjoy reading the blog but I hope that photograph doesn't do justice to your suit. To my (probably uncultured eye) the way it hangs looks all wrong. Sorry.

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  12. that suit looks so well fitting. which is my problem, i can't afford a tailored one so none really fit my body type

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  13. Hi Simon,

    I have a structured, lined navy cotton blazer, the material of which looks very similar to what you show here. I want to continue wearing through Autumn/Winter layered with shirt and knitwear... what do you think? Is this material summer only or can I get away with it? I love the jacket and want to wear it throughout the year.

    Lee

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    Replies
    1. No Lee, you can carry on wearing it as long as you like, if you're not too cold!

      Layered with some knitwear and shirt would be great. Maybe keep the knitwear thin so it doesn't bulk out under the jacket too much.

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