Cifonelli of Paris makes some of the most beautiful tailoring I've ever seen. I thought a post, therefore, on the details of a jacket rather than me rambling on about the technical stuff. Above, the broad lapel of the double-breasted, with gorgeous double-sewn lapel buttonhole. Its raised nature make it an impractical thing, but nonetheless beautiful for it.
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| Why do English patch pockets frequently have so little curve and character? |
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| The signature brown horn button, polished on the rim and matte on the inside |
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| Lapped shoulder (and in the background, back) seam |
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| Label and pocket flap with handsewn buttonhole |
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| Silk lining and handwork around the inbreast pocket |
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| Signature 'C' on the buggy lining, attaching the two sides across the back |
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| Beautifully attached lining panel over inside vent |
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| Cuff buttonholes, with those buttons and that patch pocket |
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This is beautiful indeed.
ReplyDeleteSimon may i ask the price of this jacket? What cloth is that?
Thanks a lot,
Patrick
The inner breast pocket is so beautifully executed. That style (maybe it's called Barcelona) makes relining a jacket trickier but it's so much better than making the pocket mouth from lining.
ReplyDeleteThe sheer neatness of all the work is startling. I admit that I'd never even seen a piece of Cifonelli work until you featured it here. They really mark the pinnacle of good tailoring.
That is magnificent. I'm not normally a fan of patch pockets, but these are a bit special.
ReplyDeleteHi Simon,
ReplyDeleteThis an indication among numerous other things of your cosmopolitan perspective on menswear!Even on shoes, you remain quite open despite all!...
Since I do not live very far away from from rue Marbeuf, I will take just a closely look on what they have been doing.
John
Fantastic pictures. Thanks a lot. What kind of prices are we talking about? Sorry to ask about the $$$ but unfortunately it is part of the equation...
ReplyDeleteHi Simon, thanks for sharing the beautiful Cifonelli details; what's the fabric?
ReplyDeleteHi - the fabric is Harrison's Moonbeam, 75% superfine lambswool, 25% angora.
ReplyDeleteA jacket like this would cost €3800
Simon
3800 euros?
ReplyDeleteI believe that Cifonelli was very,very more expansive; much more that Huntsman,Rubinacci or Caraceni of Milan.
That's for a jacket, remember, not a suit. At current exchange rates to the pound, that's more expensive.
ReplyDeletewow. how much for a suit?
ReplyDeleteCloser to €5000
ReplyDeleteThank you Simon for your answers. Prices are high indeed... This being said, we all agree here that the jacket seems to be really fantastic.
ReplyDeleteQuestion for you: i saw that there is another Parisian tailor, called "Camps de Luca". Do you know them? Heard of them? Are they comparable to Cifonelli in quality and in prices?
To be precise, Cifonelli starts at €4900, Mario Caraceni in Milan is €4800 I think, Huntsman is over €5000
ReplyDeleteEdouard, yes Camps de Luca are very good. I've visited but never had anything made. Wei Koh at The Rake has had some absolutely beautiful things there. Comparably in prices and quality
ReplyDeleteYou have highlighted a slight issue I have with your blog. That issue is the disconnect between quality and price, specifically - value. You feature many very well made and beautiful garments and shoes on your site, but sometimes I get the impression that you purchase certain items just because they are high end and therefore expensive/exclusive. The Cifonelli Jacket featured above is incedibly well made and a truely beautiful thing that you will treasure for many years, but in comparison to say an Andeson & Sheppard or something by John Kent, is it really worth the money?
ReplyDeleteThe Cifonelli jacket is a close call. But, there are other features, such as a the probably highly impractical eye shade with ribbon fastener. This is surely a choice of fashion/exclusivity over quality/value/practical benefit. Other example include Berluti shoes or anything by Kiton. All high end and the products of fine craftsmanship, but neither are really worth the over-the-top asking price if we are honest.
Besides this slight qualm, please keep up the excellent work!
It's a good point. I wouldn't say that Cifonelli is worse value for money than A&S though. It may even be better value given the work.
ReplyDeleteIt's hard to argue over price with Berluti shoes, and with much of Kiton. But I would say with Kiton that they put a huge amount of work and investment in their things, rather like Hermes. It's just a question of whether they spend on the right things. Loro Piana is similar.
Simon,
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing this information with us. Could you amend this entry with an image of you wearing the garment? You're blog is awesome.
@anon,
ReplyDeleteThings can be beautiful for the sake of being beautiful. Price need not be a constraint all the time. You are free to look elsewhere for value.