Wednesday, 21 March 2012
Sartoria Vergallo, final suit
I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer than I expected from a northern Italian tailor. But that might just be my inexperience. I’m still a beginner, folks.
The chest and shoulder are both very lightly padded, and the shoulder itself slopes off naturally without any roll – though of course not being a spalla camicia or shirt sleeve, as preferred in Naples. This effect is exaggerated by the material, which was of course entirely my choice. It is a cashmere/wool mix from a Cacciopoli bunch in a fairly chunky weave and is certainly intended for a blazer, rather than a full suit.
But the overall effect is an incredibly comfortable suit, something that feels more comfy than any cotton tracksuit you care to mention. The trousers are unlikely to hold a crease, but I audibly sigh and relax as I put it on.
The suit is therefore certainly not sharp or stylised. It has mid-size lapels and relatively closed quarters – not much cutaway at the bottom. The trousers are typical of the region, being cuffed and relatively short, though not that narrow. A Vergallo suit wouldn’t normally come with strap-and-buckle adjustors, but I requested them. My only criticism of the suit, in fact, is that the adjustors Gianni sourced could be better – but that can easily be changed.
The work throughout is top notch and the fit very good, as hopefully comes across. It exhibits the little touches that Gianni takes pride in, such as the darts in the forepart ending at the pocket, making the bottom a single piece. And the patch pockets have that lovely curved shape that clearly sets it apart from English tailoring.
A lovely, well-made and great-value suit.
Sartoria Vergallo is based in Varese, but visits London every month. His suits start at €1800. For more background, see post here.