Panta clothing: new trousers and site
2 July 2012
Trousers are easier to tailor than a jacket. They’re not straightforward, as everyone’s waist to seat ratio varies, but the problems are at least largely in two dimensions.
Because trousers are simpler, you can spend less money on them. You can have a jacket made bespoke, but get trousers made to measure or alter them off the peg. Or have them made by a cheaper tailor overseas.
Will at A Suitable Wardrobe has said he uses WW Chan in Hong Kong for this purpose. I think I will always continue having trousers made at Graham Browne, even if my jackets are increasingly made by Savile Row or Neapolitan tailors whose make is better.
I have also found the off-the-peg trousers of Ed Morel at Panta in New York very good for this purpose. I usually have them altered in the waist, and they come unfinished in the leg, but the fit elsewhere is good.
Ed’s materials are very good: he is constantly seeking new, interesting cloths and our tastes are similar. The pair shown here are a cotton that is milled to feel like a silk or wool mix. More importantly, these are cloths that are usually only available to bespoke customers – the volumes are not big enough and are too expensive to be on the high street. (The trousers start at $329 by the way.)
Some of the finishing inside the trousers could be neater and it would be nice to have options with side adjustors rather than just belt loops. But these are ready-to-wear after all, and elsewhere I cannot fault them. The buttons are horn, the waistband and buttonholes are all done by hand and there is nice pick stitching on the seams too. They are made by the Rocco Cicarelli factory in New York, which makes for several large fashion brands though rarely to this level.
Ed’s website is now much fuller and fully functioning, at pantaclothing.com, which is great – for years I have been recommending the trousers but there was no central site to see the stock.
Check it out.
(Lord Willy’s in New York is an interesting exception to the rule that trousers are easier. All its suit trousers are made bespoke while the jackets are made to measure, because they consider it so difficult to make a universal trouser pattern for very slim trousers.)