Wednesday, 3 October 2012

A suit at Thom Sweeney: Reader question



Dear Simon,



I hope that you don't mind me emailing you, but I have a few questions regarding bespoke and made-to-measure suits that I need to ask someone who knows about style, and you seem to be one of the most knowledgeable on the subject.



I'm looking to get my first tailored suit, and I think that I've settled on my tailor of choice which is Thom Sweeney (it was a decision between Tom Baker and Thom Sweeney, but I feel that Tom Baker's style may be just a little too outlandish for my taste).

The suit will initially be used for my wedding in Las Vegas, but after this I'm hoping to use it for special occasions and possibly the odd "suit" day at work etc. I don't wear suits regularly for my job, and due to the costs, I'm hoping to get a multi-purpose suit, striking a good balance between formal & casual.



So, onto my questions. I'm looking at getting a nice 3 piece, navy colour, maybe edging towards midnight blue. The cut of the suit in the picture above is absolutely stunning. However, I'm thinking of adding some extra personal touches, just to make it more of my own.
Would opting for a M2M suit allow me to customise things such as the colour of the lining? I'm hoping to get a vivid green colour lining for the suit.
Are bespoke buttons available? I was wondering if I could get buttons that had a very slim matching green rim to the button on the suit or waistcoat. 


Thing is, am I going to get laughed out of the shop if I asked for things like this? Would it spoil the suit? Is there anything else that I could do to make the suit that little bit more personal to me?
I hope that you may have time to give me some advice on this, as I really am a little lost in the whole tailoring world!



Yours sincerely, 
Matt


Hi Matt,

Let’s start with the easy questions first. Yes, a made-to-measure or bespoke suit will allow you to change the colour of the lining, and there’s quite a variety so I’m sure you’ll be able to find the green you want. Buttons, however, will be harder. There’s normally a choice of colours of horn, but you’ll struggle to find the green you’re looking for. You’ll have to source them yourself or – probably best in my opinion – stick with brown or black horn.

You won’t be laughed out of the shop for either question. Thom and Luke are great guys and very open to style questions.

As to things that could make it more personal, I would stick to picking out the cloth, and decisions like the number of buttons, lapel shape etc. – particularly as this is your first tailored suit and you want it to be versatile.

But this moves onto the tricky area of casual/formal versatility. The suit you have picked out from my previous post is actually a midnight blue tuxedo – with satin-covered buttons and satin lapels. Thom and Luke will definitely make you a suit that is similar, but losing the satin elements to take it away from tuxedo territory. Above is a suit from their website lookbook which demonstrates this – albeit in a different blue and without peak lapels.

However, a midnight blue suit (with the Thom Sweeney trademark horseshoe waistcoat) is never going to be casual. It will be great for your wedding and for the office, but won’t be as versatile as, say, a tweed or woolen check. Indeed, nothing will bridge to gap between that and a wedding. They are at different ends of the formality spectrum.

I hope that helps

Simon

15 comments:

  1. That would be my worry too, spoiling a suit by asking for too many changes.

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  2. Hi Simon,
    Many many thanks for answering my question. Thanks for clearing up some of the points over what can be done for a M2M and Bespoke suits, and I can see your point over "playing safe" esp. with my first tailored suit.

    In my original email to you, I'm not too sure if I mixed up the original pictures of the suit that I saw on your blog that I liked. The one that I thought I sent to you has the below link:

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EotQ9xgqtLs/Tnzfdac1kGI/AAAAAAAAB9o/ID_OneijRak/s1600/thom_sweeney_extra2.jpg

    Either way - it's reassuring to know that the Thom and Luke are good guys!

    Cheers,
    Matt

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  3. Ah yes, that's definitely more a wedding suit, though I recommend the horseshoe waistcoat

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  4. Good advice and love the midnight blue 3 pc. at the top of the article.

    Out of interest, could you just take the waistcoat away from a 3pc suit to turn it into a 2pc, and wear it that way, or is a 3pc cut in a different way which would mean it doesn't work like this?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, you can certainly take the waist oat away

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    2. Is there then a case for having every suit you buy made as a 3pc, so as to add versatility? Assuming of course that it's not made in a summer cloth.

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    3. Sure, that certainly makes it more versatile. Though after two or three of those, you might be able to get a jacket for the same cost, which might be even more versatile..

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  5. Dear Simon
    I'm looking at dipping my tentative toe into tailored suits, and have a budget of just over a thousand pounds. I guess a made to measure is the obvious step, and although I already have an off the shelf blue suit, I'm thinking that's the safest place to start (although I do quite fancy a brown suit...). For smart wear (ie important work and/or social occasions).
    Have you any recommendations on a tailor who won't scare a 'starter' away?
    thanks in advance
    Nick

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'd recommend Graham Browne, bespoke. Have a search around the site for more information. I highly recommend them and it's a great value way into bespoke

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  6. I had a fabulous Tom Baker suit made. He can do anything you want. I'm a banker and the suit was appropriate for my work.

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  7. I just had a M2M suit from Thom Sweeney and it's absolutely fantastic. There are quite a selection of lining to choose from and you will be spoilt for choice.

    If you want to have a dark navy blue suit, I would recommend the birdseye fabric.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello,

      I know it's a vulgar question to ask but I'm considering the same thing (M2M suit from Thom Sweeney)so I'm curious how much would something like that cost. Again apologies for being so up front.

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  8. Thanks for all the comments and advice - Will certainly check out the birdseye fabric and the U-shaped waistcoats..

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  9. Simon. Love the blog. I'm also considering Thom Sweeney, in this case for a made to measure. Do you have a view on their made to measure programme in comparison with others in that price range (roughly a grand) and for MTM would a customer be dealing directly with Luke or Thom, or would it be a more junior member of staff? Cheers.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Mark, you'd certainly be dealing with Thom or Luke. I haven't tried their MTM service or indeed many others, so I can't really offer much advice there I'm afraid. But I do know they are introducing a second level of MTM, so it might be worth asking about that too.

      Cheers
      Simon

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