The most formal suit combination for a
modern man is a navy suit, white shirt and silver tie. When that tie is a woven
like a Macclesfield, it is a classic wedding combination and much more suitable
to being married in than the tuxedos so favoured in the US – and looks more
elegant without the fancy waistcoats that blight many English weddings.
One step down on the formality, the
smartness, is a blue shirt instead of white. The contrast is reduced and the
whole look softened. It is sleek enough for evening and not too stark for
business.
This is my favourite combination for evening
events such as the Rake/Anderson & Sheppard/Bryan Ferry party a couple of
weeks ago, at which I am pictured above with Alexander Kraft of Sotheby’s. Diego
Della Valle of Tod’s is also a great exponent of the look. The choice of navy
or grey suit makes less difference that that change of shirt colour.
Alexander, a contributor to The Rake and a
Ralph Lauren ambassador/model alongside his day job, is wearing what I think of
as a more classic Italian combination of navy and blue. The suit is by
Cifonelli.
My suit is Anderson & Sheppard, the
shirt Kiton, the tie Tom Ford and the handkerchief a lovely grey and mint green
design from Lissom & Muster. My only regret (there’s always one) is that
the tie knot wasn’t tightened rather more. It is too chunky in the tie space
available.
More photos from the evening here.
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I like the grey suit, Simon. Would you be able to reveal what the cloth is? The reason being that I'm looking to have a grey double-breasted made up in the next year or so and would like some inspiration! Thanks very much.
ReplyDeleteit's an end on end, can't remember the bunch but I'll check next time I'm in
DeleteDiego Della Valle's great friend and some time business partner Luca Cordero di Montezemolo is also a notable exponent of this look, although often with woollen or cashmere ties rather than silk.
DeletePersonally I think you look sharper than the (also sharp) gentleman next to you: the combination of greys, blue and white is fantastic in your outfit.
ReplyDeleteOne question on collar points: what do you think of the emphasis on having your collar points covered by the lapels of your jacket? I am reminded because this is the case in both of your outfits above. I certainly think it looks much sharper; I only have one shirt that does this (quite a wide spread collar) and think it looks better than all of my other shirts. I have broad shoulders and it's difficult finding collars wide enough. I recall reading on Parisian Gentleman that if the shirt's collar's aren't wide enough to be covered by the lapels of your jacket, the shirt's cut doesn't suit you and it should therefore not be purchased. I have seen the ever-dapper Patrick Grant in photographs where he doesn't have them covered, however, but do think it looks much better on the whole when they are. Any thoughts on this?
It's certainly a good guide, but I wouldn't put it in as extreme terms as Hugo.
DeleteSimon,
ReplyDeleteI like the optical glasses frame you are wearing in the picture, they look great. Are they bespoke made or purchase off the shelf and who is the designer.
Regards
Chuck
Off the shelf, from Francois Pinton. Bizarrely, given how strong the name is in France and elsewhere, they were available at my optician round the corner from the office for £80.
DeleteThere are lots of good models out there at the moment though. Check out Meyrowitz, Cutler & Gross and the new Hardy Amies range