Three years ago I met Judy Bown, a bag designer who had left
her previous career working for companies such as Mulberry, Asprey and Tanner
Krolle to set up her own label. The make of her bags was superb. The edges were
inked by hand, for example, which she explained could be identified by their
smooth, rounded finish: most pieces are inked individually and then stitched
together (making them weaker), leaving a line running down the middle of the edge.
Most of all, though, I fell in love with her vegetable-tanned grain leather. This piece is about how well that leather and the bag has aged
over those three years.
Scratches across the surface appear harsh to begin with,
before mellowing with the natural oils of the leather. Dirt has accumulated at
the edges and on the bottom of the bag; but it appears a happy addition to the
patina, rather than a tarnishing. None of the edges have been damaged or come
apart.
Judy’s design is unusual for a soft weekend bag, in that the
structure is created from the outside by the two side panels. It works because
of the nature of the leather and its thickly inked edges. As you can see that
shape has become distorted slightly, with the edges buckling in places. But the
overall structure is not compromised and it functions just as well.
The bag was not cheap, approaching £1000, but it has been
used scores of times in the past three years and I look forward to using it for
years to come. I even followed it up with a handbag for my wife – the Lizzy
Bag, below.
This is part of the How Great Things Age series. For more in
this series, click here.
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What's the best way to care for a leather bag? Clean it with saddle soap and then cream and polish like shoes?
ReplyDeleteIt depends a little on the leather, but broadly yes: clean it with saddle soap when it gets too dirty, and give it some cream every month or two. Don't bother using polish or wax as you would with shoes though.
DeleteDear Simon
ReplyDeleteYou mention saddle soap as a cleaner but i was not aware that this was required on leather? When i enquired some months ago about leather care i was told 'just cream' - this was information provided at Swaine and Adney. When i looked in to the saddle soap product there was a vast choice. Some with glycerine some without, some which leave a sheen, some which dont - and so on.
Could you provide a little more information so that i can obtain the right product please? For example i have one bag that is bridle leather which is quite a bright almost orange colour with a slight sheen whilst another bag is dark brown with a heavy grain and another chestnut brown. Can i use the soap on all and how does it work. Following that can you also recommend a leather cream that would suffice for all bags and wallets?
Best regards and happy Xmas
Bradley
You don't necessarily need to use soap to clean, Bradley. It depends how much you care about a little dirt - otherwise known as patina or 'character'. I have never cleaned the Bown bag above, for example. I usually only clean when there are specific stains. Cream will also remove some dirt when you apply it and then brush off, hence the comment from Swaine Adeney.
DeleteI have used a simple saddle soap on most of my bags, but if you want something specific to the leather, best to ask the manufacturer.
Hi Simon, wondering whether you could suggest a good leather worker in London to repair a bag that I have. There are little rips in the leather which connects the strap to the body of the bag which I would need to get a look at. Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeleteI've never used anyone, but let me ask around and get you a name
DeleteThere's a leather craftshop in Leadenhall Market in the City of London called Inro. The craftsmen hail from the Kashmir region of India/Pakistan and are usually there on a Tuesday or Thursday. Apart from producing handmade items like wallets and belts, they have undertaken adjustments for three leather belts of mine and have done a good job. They might be able to help, ask for Nawaz. The're currently making a bespoke folding knife case for me.
DeleteI love it, the ageing / scratches on the leather make it look so rustic and authentic.
ReplyDelete