Merry Christmas everyone. Photo here from a recent shoot for The Rake at the Lanesborough Hotel: Richard Anderson, Brian Lishak and myself, left to right.
We are all wearing Richard Anderson black tie. With mine, Sean O'Flynn shirt with stiff collar, Le Noued Papillon tie and Cleverley Oxfords with silk laces.
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I never knew that wine colored shoes (like Mr. Anderson's on the right) were appropriate for an all black tux. Is this common or considered edgy/trendy?
ReplyDeleteGreat blog! I've been following for the past year and it's giving me a lot of ideas and courage to keep wearing suits in a cultural that lacks style.
Brown shoes?
ReplyDeleteNo, Richard forgot his black shoes...
ReplyDeleteNotch lapels?
ReplyDeleteMerry Christmas Simon.
Far more acceptable than most people think. My tux from the fifties has notch lapels and Richard still cuts a lot of notches with black tie
DeletePeople might question it on the basis that you once called it a "black-tie sin". It might be useful to qualify this at a later stage.
DeleteThis is how I look at it: as we know, notch lapels on DJs have come to prominence as manufacturers cut cost and create DJs in the same mold as a regular suit. Thus, the real problem lies with having 2 buttons, venting and flapped pockets - features that make the DJ look messy - and not with the lapels themselves. A one button DJ, without venting etc. but with notch lapels would be more 'correct' than a vented, two button, peak lapel DJ.
Basically notches are fine, its just that they are commonly seen with other features inappropriate for black tie. Also, where everything else on the DJ remains the same they are less suitable than a peak or a shawl.
Sorry for waffling.
Not at all, thanks.
DeleteI would always recommend someone go with peak lapels, and I think it looks far better. But a sin was probably too much
Brown shoes with a tux? Wasn't it worthy to look for some black ones for a well-known tailor for a photo in a magazine like The Rake?? :-) Or maybe to avoid showing the shoes!
ReplyDeleteHappy Xmas too, Simon.
R.M.
I always thought that the correct tux (if you pardon my rather colonial expression) was double-breasted and of course with peak lapels (otherwise you're presumably 'off' course).
ReplyDeleteNo, in fact double breasted is considered a more casual option for a tux.
DeleteSo what's your opinion on the even more casual cream coloured/light beige jacket (with black trousers etc)?
DeleteBrett Sinclair in the Persuaders wears one that I am quite fond of.
There seems to have been a lot of experimentation in black ties especially in the 30's. Some were not so stylish like the short jacket that were duly mocked in one of the Geeves and Wooster episode. But some like the vey casual (perhaps more of an alternative) white trousers with a navy double breasted jacket (no gold buttons) looks quite stylish to me.
What's your opinion?
I'd keep cream or other light jackets to events in tropical countries. There was a lot of experimentation when people wore black tie all the time. Today keeping it simple and of the best quality that is affordable is a better idea
DeleteSince we're on the topic of dinner suits, Simon, could you recommend anywhere in London to look for a RTW dinner suit? I take it the sales are starting now. I'd have a budget of around £200 or maybe a bit more, plus an extra hundred or so for alterations. A modest amount by the standards of some items on this blog, certainly. Is there anywhere you could recommend?
ReplyDeleteThanks.
Sorry, RTW isn't exactly a strength. Most of the standard suit places - Austin Reed, Jaeger, Gieves etc should have something.
Deletecheck out the crombie sale. The one in Edinburgh has always been fantastic for deals on RTW dinner suits! often as little as £120 for what would have been a £600+ suit.
DeleteBTW the photo is great :)
ReplyDeleteI see you have a shirt with studs in the photo. I've always liked the pleated front shirt with a completely clean, hidden placket. What is your opinion of those? Are they acceptable?
ReplyDeleteAbsolutely. Slightly less formal than studs, but the difference is not worth bothering about
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