The tailors I have known: Part 2, Italy, France, HK

Following the post earlier in the week comparing English tailors that I have used, below are those from the rest of the world. As before, links are to blog posts with more details on the various tailors, and pictures. If anyone has questions on specific comparisons, please feel free to ask them in the comments.

Italy

Caliendo

A small, second-generation tailor in Naples. Elia Caliendo is the cutter and his father still does some of the tailoring work. Neapolitan style is fairly consistent, with self-lined jackets in the foreparts, very light construction, shirt shoulders and those curving pockets. The biggest difference between them is quality of finishing and fit, and Elia is superb on both. He visits London every month or so.

I have had a summer jacket and a Permanent Style tweed jacket made by Elia. He is slightly cheaper than his peers and is London often, which is a big advantage. My favourite Neapolitan.

Solito

One of the biggest names in Neapolitan tailoring. Gennaro Solito is a great cutter; he speaks no English but his son, Luigi, does. Their style is typical Neapolitan though they do a large number of regular (not shirt) shoulders too. Beautiful overcoats.

I have yet to receive my Solito jacket after a year, but I was expecting this: Solito is popular and their lead times are very long. I can’t comment on fit or make yet, but you can see the basted jacket here.

Rubinacci

The biggest name in Naples. Many of the greatest tailors, such as Panico, began working for Rubinacci before they set up on their own. They still make more suits than anyone else in Naples by some way. Regular Neapolitan style, though with a big collection of vintage cloth on offer, a penchant for silk-scarf linings and Luca’s other inventions. Stores in Milan and London and regular visits to the US and elsewhere in the world.

Rubinacci’s strength is its styling. Luca is, for me, one of the great menswear stylists of the age. The cashmere Donegal jacket I had made from an old 70s cloth was good, with a great make and ok fit. But it was Luca’s recommendation of the bronze-green lining that made it for me.

Vergallo

A local tailor from the town of Varese, north of Milan, Vergallo has become a bigger name in tailoring since cutter Gianni Cleopazzo began travelling to London. A north Italian style, so softer than English but sharper than the Neapolitans.

Vergallo has made me a navy cashmere suit and just finished a houndstooth jacket. Good make and fit, with an openness to innovation such as a leather undercollar and foreparts that button all the way up when the collar is popped. Probably the best value Italian tailor coming to London, at €1800 for a suit.

Liverano & Liverano

The best-known tailor in Florence, Antonio Liverano cuts a short jacket and slim trousers. It is quite contemporary in that respect, and has been popular with the guys over at The Armoury in Hong Kong. Check out their Tumblr for examples of the work.

Antonio is making me a purple jacket, which is not ready yet but you can see at the basted stage here. He is expensive, but I like his sense of style (he commissioned his own doughnut-patterned scarves) and the cut works well in casual jackets.

  

France

Cifonelli

Although I have written about Parisian tailors many times, Cifonelli is the only one I have used myself. Lorenzo’s cut is characterised by a light construction but a strength of shape achieved by a roped shoulder and narrow waist. Stunning finishing on the buttonholes, trousers and linings.

Cifonelli is my top recommendation for a business suit, given the shape. But then Lorenzo is also great on innovation in cloth and design, as previous posts on them will illustrate. Travels to London regularly too.

Hong Kong

E.Italian

Back in the days when I travelled to Hong Kong a lot, and had less money, I tried three or four different cheap HK tailors. Edward Tam at E.Italian was the best, at around £300 for a suit. The cut can be a little boxy but if you’re insistent, it can be a great choice. Cut by hand and made by hand, with a fitting or two required. Not to anywhere near the same standard as bespoke elsehwere (try WW Chan or similar for that) but not a rip-off 24-hour tailor either.

Photo at top: Tailor at Elia Caliendo, Naples. By Luke Carby