Receive the Permanent Style newsletter
x
Follow us on:   Facebook Twitter Google Plus Pinterest Feedburner News Feed   About us

Gaziano & Girling bespoke: new adelaides and fitting process

21 August 2013


These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar.

Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly as a result of Daniel (Wegan) stepping up to share the measuring and last making with him. Any bespoke item is much easier to get right when the same person meets the customer, takes the measurements and makes the last. (Or when the measurer and lastmaker have worked together long enough.)

With more variation in this process now at G&G, Tony has introduced more measurements, a pressure-pad system and a trial shoe for customers (below). The first two are both differences I noted at Lee Miller, the Texas bespoke bootmaker, in a recent post, though Tony swears he didn’t see it. Perhaps Daniel did. 


The trial shoe, or rather pair of shoes, is made out of cheap leather and given a cemented rubber sole. But the shape is exactly the same, so the customer can wear them around for a week or two and get a better idea of how well they fit – as they are walked in, as the foot swells during the day. These changes can be incorporated into the last and mean fewer changes are required on the finished shoe.

“Many of the extra things other shoemakers do – such as cutting the shoe open – are largely theatre, like a tailor ripping off a basted sleeve.” says Tony. “It can be useful for seeing a hammer toe close-up, but that’s about it. We have found, however, that being able to wear a trial shoe for a period of time gives you and the customer a much better idea of how it fits.”

As I’ve already been wearing my bespoke G&Gs for several months, this isn’t really required for me. But it will be interesting to see how new customers like it.