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Brand: Gaziano and Girling

   In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together.Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci cashmere jacket. The corn colour … > Read more
  I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I … > Read more
  Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation.We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually … > Read more
  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. … > Read more
  Next week there are two great events to get along to if you can: a trunk show by Saint Crispin’s and a drinks evening with Camps de Luca. The Saint Crispin’s event takes place in the Drake’s store on Clifford Street, … > Read more
 Last year I interviewed Tony Gaziano for this video, created by Essence Lifestyle (the questions were deliberately removed to create a single narration).It was interesting talking to Tony in more detail about his early days – beginning on the design side, and then … > Read more
 A tailor commented to me recently that the problem with people today is they are too materialistic. I think this misses the point slightly – and an exploration of it highlights an important aspect of the approach we advocate on … > Read more
 Well, you asked for more pictures… First, the speakers.     
  Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around the laces. The G&G model is the St James II.) The … > Read more
 A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his question, summarising experiences so … > Read more
 By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring.Above, Michael Browne in his navy seersucker.    Francis of C&M. Tailoring always looks so … > Read more
 Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a Northampton maker is … > Read more
 I do like it when readers suggest posts. You feel you’re fulfilling a need. Two weeks ago, on Five Tips on Bespoke Suits, a reader requested a similar post on bespoke shoes, so here it is.1 Be conservativeI know it’s … > Read more
 Attire for flying out to Florence this week.Polo shirts make great travel items, particularly long-sleeved under jackets. They are comfortable, cool and versatile, and navy is the smartest option. Just make sure the collar is tall enough to not slip … > Read more
When was the last time there was a shop opening on Savile Row to get excited about? One making to the same standard as the great tailors already there? Exactly. Reason enough to shout about the new Gaziano & Girling … > Read more
  Tan shoes make such a lovely complement to grey flannel, don’t they? And we know why the socks are green.  But of course the most beautiful thing here is the lines of the shoe. The tight waist that causes … > Read more
  OK, it’s only a work site at the moment, but the Gaziano & Girling shop on Savile Row is looking exciting. At number 39, it might be the only shop on the west side of Savile Row that’s worth … > Read more
Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. … > Read more
An archive-trawling reader recently reminded me that back in November 2011 I wrote about my new Edward Green Top Drawer boots, concluding that perhaps it would be best to wait two years and then see how the boots had worn. … > Read more
It has been a year since I began my  column with How to Spend It  looking at value in menswear. Nice as it was, we had covered most of the basics – so the editors and I decided recently to … > Read more
Having tried so many tailors and shoemakers, I am often asked to compare them. With bespoke shoes, the most common question is which maker achieved the best fit. However, the fit often doesn’t vary that much, and most importantly (perhaps … > Read more
These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael (Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama.Michael (below) is … > Read more
The new Gaziano & Girling factory in Kettering is taking shape, and it’s a wonderful thing to see. An old Loake factory, where they used to do their bottom stock, it backs onto the Church’s closing facility. In fact, the … > Read more
These are my latest Gaziano & Girlingbespoke shoes, waiting to be made ready for a fitting (hopefully next week). They are a St James style (semi-brogue adelaide) in vintage cedar. Interestingly, Tony has changed his fitting process recently, mostly as … > Read more
  “If you want to know if a guy is well dressed, look down.” So said US columnist George Frazier back in the 1950s, and his words have never been more true. Men who spend too little on their shoes end … > Read more
This column in Japanese magazine Free & Easy is the result of the photo shoot I posted about before Christmas. I have no idea what the Japanese text says, but hopefully it faithfully reports my opinions on shoes and shoe … > Read more
    Hidetaka Fukaya, also known by his nickname Il Micio, is as much artist as artisan. Shoemakers tend to divide into two groups: those that are primarily driven by the artistic side of their work and those that are motivated principally by … > Read more
 Photo shoot yesterday for Free and Easy magazine in Japan. They’re doing a special on English shoes, so shots of four pairs of my shoes from four different English shoemakers, and an interview/shoot with me. Photos of that next month … > Read more
This past few weeks on The Rake website I’ve written about my first bespoke fitting at Gaziano & Girling, the sensual pleasures of Santa Maria Novella and the reasons why The Merchant Fox has a unique selling point with its … > Read more
A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles.Recently we have had posts … > Read more
Good English shoes are pretty much always worth the money you pay for them. Three things reminded me of this in recent weeks. One was a friend’s wedding. After years of buying in the low end of the market, he … > Read more
It should have been obvious from my piece back in May on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line that I would be very tempted by them, and this is the result a few months later.They are gorgeous shoes, whole-cut Oxfords … > Read more
I contributed a fairly practical piece on buying good shoes to newspaper City AM a few weeks ago. Interested readers can find it here.
It’s time for US tours again. Doesn’t time fly?The full dates for two makers – Cleverley and Alfred Sargent Handgrade – can be seen on their sites at those links. And pictured we have some new styles from Sargents, awaiting … > Read more
Latest from The Rake:Devils in Deco Five years ago Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling were a breath of fresh air in British shoemaking. Now, with the startlingly elegant Deco line, they’re determined to do it all over again Simon CromptonYou … > Read more
Following several requests, here are a few more details on Gaziano & Girling’s new Deco line:– Shoes will only be available made-to-order to begin with– Retailers will be offered the option to carry stock, so that may change– The models will … > Read more
A little Christmas treat for you here, a sneak peek at the Deco line from Gaziano & Girling that will come out next year. The shots, taken exclusively by Andy for Permanent Style, are of the first finished model, a … > Read more
I’ve never been a fan of Albert slippers with black tie. With a normal tux they look out of place and with a velvet jacket they drag the look back to the domestic engagement that the jacket is trying to … > Read more
Following a conversation earlier in the year with Chay Cooper, I commissioned the Alfred Sargent Handgrade shoes above. One of the reasons Handgrade has developed such a word-of-mouth following is the personalisation it offers, both as regards the design of … > Read more
This series is a progression in socks, from the most conservative to the most flamboyant colour combinations. It is important to start slowly and build to greater sophistication. Colour is tricky; so much can go wrong in a shade. Buy … > Read more
While up in Northampton last week, I stopped in to see Gaziano & Girling’s new workshop. And Tony was kind enough to show me round. There aren’t many shoe makers in England that combine a bespoke and ready-made business in … > Read more
After four bespoke suits made in Hong Kong over the past few years, and now embarking on my second British bespoke suit, I find it hard to see how I could ever stop getting a particular thrill out of it. … > Read more
Entirely handmade shoes are not cheap. The high-end benchmade shoes are hand-clicked and hand-lasted, but not hand-welted. In this country, most of the entirely handmade ones are made bespoke. And that makes them even more expensive, as the shoe is … > Read more
Leffot, the shoe store I described as “a gem in New York” almost a year ago now, is going from strength to strength.Back then it had only been open a month and was still finding its feet. Now it is … > Read more