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Brand: Gieves and Hawkes

  I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I … > Read more
  Laces are to a shoe what buttons are to a jacket. Often ignored, but with a disproportionate important effect on the overall look. The most attractive buttons, for me, are always matte horn with a touch of contrast in their colouring. … > Read more
 Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite?(Worth expanding to full screen)
I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but … > Read more
  Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You always know more about … > Read more
 A few more details on the bespoke pea coat from Gieves & Hawkes, as promised. (By the way, isn’t the pitch of the sleeve above gorgeous? Easier with a heavy cloth of course, but it is a uniquely pleasurable sight.)So, the … > Read more
 Two weeks ago I finally received the pea coat that Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes) and I have been working on for just over a year. There are a few pieces of clothing that make me literally dance for joy when … > Read more
 I’m so excited the weather in London has finally turned cold. Summer clothing is great, but there’s just so much more of it in winter: hats, scarves, gloves, overcoats, plus heavy-gauge knitwear and serious boots.The key to dressing well in … > Read more
 Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly recommend it – not for my small … > Read more
 Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at the commisioining, the fittings, and have … > Read more
 The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the embroidery designs of lovely Claire (Barrett) at Hawthorne & … > Read more
 Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres.While they showed very different ideas of the best … > Read more
   The pea coat being made by Davide Taube at Gieves & Hawkes is slowly coming together. As with previous projects, we are approachng the design I had in mind wanderingly, through a series of fittings. No matter how much … > Read more
Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. … > Read more
    A few weeks ago, Davide (Taub, cutter at Gieves & Hawkes) and I began working on another bespoke project, following the leather jacket we completed back in August.   This time we decided to tackle the pea coat. … > Read more
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at l.a.shirtmaker@gmail.com]One of the nice things about having clothes made is … > Read more
GBWU: God be with us. A little note that Lee at Gieves & Hawkes customarily scribbles on patterns for particularly difficult figurations. It is a habit, a superstition: written with a smile and long since deprived of any real expectation … > Read more
These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael (Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama.Michael (below) is … > Read more
Following the post earlier in the week on my finished leather jacket from Gieves, here are a few of the construction and design details. There is no hand stitching, as on most leather products, other than working a relatively full sleeve … > Read more
The finished leather jacket. This bespoke project from Gieves & Hawkes has progressed quite quickly compared to tailoring, but it still feels like an age since Davide and I first conceived of the idea. Most of all, there is the … > Read more
The hardest thing about having my bespoke leather jacket made over the past couple of months has been not seeing the raw material. With a bespoke suit, you are fitted in the actual cloth and gradually see it take shape. … > Read more
This was the third and final fitting for my Gieves leather jacket. There had been one in between this and the first fitting, but only a few minor adjustments were made. Then, for the final look, Davide used a new … > Read more
This is my first fitting on the bespoke leather jacket being made by Davide Taub of Gieves & Hawkes. I already have a suit pattern at Gieves, having had a travel blazer made there a couple of years ago, and … > Read more
This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it includes Austin Reed and … > Read more
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within … > Read more
Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins.  Three Anderson & Sheppard employees … > Read more
One of Italy’s oldest books on silk work In the past two weeks on The Rake we’ve had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a step-by-step feature … > Read more
Gieves & Hawkes has always had a good bespoke operation, and surprisingly large on site, but it gets relatively little press. A definite bonus has been Davide Taub, who joined from Maurice Sedwell recently to become co-head cutter alongside Lee … > Read more
  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is a shortcut, a sanction. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular … > Read more
We have decided to give greater structure to my How to Spend It column, making it a practical analysis of how to buy various items in a men’s wardrobe. The first one, on suits, is now live.Read it here.
  Following a recent request from a reader, here is a breakdown of all the English tailors I have tried. I include a description of the style and then one of my experiences. All the links are to pictures or more … > Read more
I love Davide because he opens up a whole world of possibilities in tailoring for me. He regularly works with bespoke raw denim; bespoke leather jackets; other things developed while he was at Maurice Sedwell. He is the kind of … > Read more
Davide Taub left Maurice Sedwell a few weeks ago to become senior cutter at Gieves & Hawkes. He replaces Kathryn Sargent, who left at the beginning of the year to set up on her own with a board over at … > Read more
The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to … > Read more
As requested, some shots of Deborah Carre making shoes in the window of Gieves & Hawkes last week, to celebrate St Crispin’s Day. Brave gal, putting herself on display like that!
Last week we had the second fitting on the Gieves & Hawkes travel blazer. Given that I’m a new customer and so we are creating a new pattern, both were basted fittings and the first looked much like this one, … > Read more
The most interesting aspect of watching the cutting for the Perfect Travel Blazer this week was, oddly, not the blazer but the trousers we are making to go with it. These are in a mid-grey, 9/10 ounce fresco from J&J … > Read more
EB Meyrowitz always used to sparkle from across the Royal Arcade, as I sat in Cleverley’s chatting to George or Teemu. The serried rows of horn and acetate frames, all in beautiful brown variations, watched by a little jazz band … > Read more
John Durnin of Gieves & Hawkes does a lot of travelling, as I do myself. It was while discussing recent trips, and standing in the new Gieves Blazer Room, that we conceived the idea of creating the perfect travel blazer. … > Read more
At 7:30am this morning Andrew Brett and the other staff of Gieve & Hawkes’s military department dressed 12 members of the Queen’s bodyguard at Buckingham Palace.The uniforms were carried over from No 1 Savile Row last night, via St James’s … > Read more
Yesterday was the grand opening of the new Gieves & Hawkes, after an extensive refurbishment and the inclusion of several friends of Permanent Style. Tim Bent has his dedicated room at the front of the store, as well as some … > Read more
The way Keith tells it, in the late eighties the Royal Household had a decision to make. The livery of the Household and Royal Mews was in pretty poor shape. It had largely been made in 1902 (for the coronation … > Read more
It’s easy to think that people have always appreciated vintage items like leather luggage, bags and accessories. But back in the early eighties, that wasn’t the case. It was only in the middle of that decade that taste in the … > Read more
Today was the first menswear show in London I have ever felt inclined to go to – the collaboration between E Tautz, Gieves & Hawkes and Hardy Amies at the latter’s beautiful premises at 14 Savile Row.Only the second time … > Read more