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Brand: Rubinacci

  I’ve had a few questions from readers as to my views on The Rake’s new collaborations – products that the magazine started selling on its site a couple of months ago. I’ve seen most of them first hand, indeed in some cases witnessed them … > Read more
  A capsule collection has many uses. When you travel for long periods, for example, you want a small but versatile collection of clothes that has a large number of permutations, and suits different occasions. And if you commute by bike … > Read more
  Milan is the centre of the men’s fashion industry, yet as far as style is concerned, there are surprisingly few shops worth visiting.Via Montenapoleone, Via Della Spiga and the roads that run between them are all pleasant places to stroll. But … > Read more
  A couple of weeks ago when we showed the pictures from our Tailoring Symposium at Pitti, a reader asked if there were any images of Wei Koh’s suit.I had mentioned that the founder of The Rake was wearing a Rubinacci-made number in … > Read more
   In the spirit of our recent posts on assembling outfits, here’s the process that put this one together.Originating idea: I’ve always liked the way this pale, silk tie from Ralph Lauren goes with my Rubinacci cashmere jacket. The corn colour … > Read more
  Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation.We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually … > Read more
 At the BTBA party last month I wanted to try wearing my tobacco-linen jacket separately. It is part of a suit of course, but it was commissioned from Sastreria Langa in Madrid with a ‘shirt’ sleeve and patch pockets to … > Read more
 Dear Simon, Following your Calvo de Mora combination [above] What are your general guidelines to wearing a black necktie? Most of the time I see it paired with the classic ensemble of white shirt with a grey jacket/grey suit. Any other … > Read more
 The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative preconceptions of suiting. The execution, however, is tricky; and for … > Read more
 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader comment … > Read more
In an age where suits no longer dominate the workplace, more and more men are wearing separate jackets and trousers. But while the dress code is more relaxed, the outfit is suddenly more complicated. There is much broader range of … > Read more
These photos were taken at the Gieves party for Rose Callahan’s book I Am Dandy last week. Michael (Browne, Chittleborough & Morgan) and I were rather underdressed, perhaps deliberately so, for an evening of fops and costume drama.Michael (below) is … > Read more
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within … > Read more
 The second part of the feature that the Spanish version of How to Spend It ran on me and Luca Rubinacci has just come out. In the article, Luca picks out three Rubinacci outfits that display his unique take on colour … > Read more
The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today.Unless your Spanish is a lot better than mine, … > Read more
 Following the post earlier in the week comparing English tailors that I have used, below are those from the rest of the world. As before, links are to blog posts with more details on the various tailors, and pictures. If … > Read more
One of the pleasures of revisiting Naples was catching up with friends, such as Mario and Mario Jr at Talarico. My ego has never swelled to the point where I assume such men will remember me, but this does have … > Read more
In Naples last week for the Rubinacci new-store party, staying in Casa Rubinacci. Expect plenty of Naples-related posts. Below, my second-oldest pair of shoes, Edward Green Malverns.
I know a few men who have discovered an interest in clothes in recent years – primarily suits, shirts, ties, good shoes. The working wardrobe, essentially. They know about the canvas in a jacket’s chest; they have established how and … > Read more
An autumnal outfit this, commissioned a little too late in the summer and then delayed by various factors so that it was ready just before Christmas. Still, on a clear winter’s day with an overcoat it serves very well and … > Read more
There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price.While … > Read more
Nice, isn’t it? That’s the view from the pool on the roof of Shoreditch House, where Michael Drake and I had lunch earlier today. The club and its sister outfit, Soho House, were of course in the news a couple … > Read more
The Rubinacci jacket is back, and feeling pretty good. Having been worn once, all day today, I don’t feel it’s too early to say that this is the most comfortable bespoke jacket I’ve ever worn. That might not be surprising, … > Read more
I was in Naples this week, to see Kiton, Rubinacci, Marinella, Attolini and Tavarico among others. It was a wonderful if sweltering way to learn more about Neapolitan style and tailoring. Serves me right for going in July. First off, … > Read more
First fitting for the Rubinacci cashmere jacket, with Mariano. A fair few adjustments at this, basted stage. Dropping right shoulder slightly, shortening left sleeve (though the sleeves were a better length than any other tailor has got them first time) … > Read more
Following on from the previous two posts in the Rubinacci series, on cloth and style, this week runs through the measuring and opinions on tailoring as a whole.The biggest difference between Rubinacci and other, English tailors that have featured in … > Read more
I was interested in the Rubinacci vintage cloth for my jacket (see previous post here) but wanted something a little more substantial than the French linen. This is England after all. In particular, I thought something with a pattern akin … > Read more
The next series to feature on Permanent Style will look at the making of a cashmere jacket at Neapolitan tailor Rubinacci, based on interviews and fittings with Mariano and Luca in London and a visit to the Naples workrooms to … > Read more
I get a lot of requests for practical advice on suit/shirt/tie combinations, so I’m going to try and drop a few more in regularly over the next few months. This is a shot Andy Barnham took of me recently as … > Read more
For some, largely those of Neapolitan extraction or who had heard of the brand five years ago, Rubinacci is a bespoke tailor. For others, mostly followers of The Sartorialist and the Cult of Luca, it is a readymade boutique stocking … > Read more