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Brand: Cifonelli

  A reader commented to me recently that one of the things he likes about Permanent Style is the fact I work in an office, just like him. It hadn’t really occurred to me before, but the fact that I work … > Read more
   A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels … > Read more
  This finished suede jacket from Cifonelli shows the beautiful breadth of what bespoke tailoring can do. Bespoke is not just for business suits; it is not just for casual jackets; it is for anything that benefits from hand-cut line and structure. I always … > Read more
  Although Paris has never been a centre of menswear – unlike London or Milan – there is a surprisingly broad range of small companies and artisans worth visiting. More, arguably, than anywhere in Italy outside Naples. The products are often … > Read more
  Several readers asked what I was wearing in the video we produced recently for Begg & Co scarves. So here they are, one by one. In the jacket shots, above:Navy cashmere jacket by Solito.Not a great level of finish, but one of … > Read more
 Ahead of our next Symposium in Florence next week – focusing on accessories – here’s a reminder of the tailoring edition I organised last summer. The Rake organised this video of our discussion beforehand, at the Four Seasons hotel.It was a privilege … > Read more
   Quite a few people asked how my suede Cifonelli jacket was being made – on the blog, on Instagram, on Facebook. And by email, with two separate tailors asking for advice to make one for their clients. Key to the … > Read more
  One area that fascinates me – perhaps more than any other – in my writing is the overlap between formal tailoring and more casual dress.If it is possible to retain the beautiful craft aspects of bespoke tailoring in casual clothing, … > Read more
  It was lovely to see so many people on Wednesday night at our launch party for The Finest Menswear in the World. Nearly everyone made it, despite the torrential rain, the taxi strikes and the underground closures. Cleverley and Anderson & Sheppard did a … > Read more
  Before the public part of Tailoring Symposium in June, we all gathered next to the pool at the Four Seasons to have a chat about tailoring and its future, with The Rake busily making a video of the event in … > Read more
 Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World.It will be published by Thames & Hudson on September 14th. A hardcover, coffee-table book of some 200-odd pages, … > Read more
 *   Update: Going by the ‘likes’ on Instagram, the outfits currently rank as:Anderson & Sheppard Cifonelli Liverano Edward Sexton Panico Richard Anderson            (Do you agree? Join in!)  *   These are the six pieces that our six greats of bespoke tailoring … > Read more
   “Edward, Edward,” said Antonio Panico, in a conspiratorial whisper. “What was it like to fit Mick Jagger?”Just like the Shoemakers Symposium we ran in January, the biggest pleasure of our Tailors Symposium at Pitti this week was bringing together wonderful, … > Read more
 At our Tailoring Symposium next week in Florence, we have six of the greatest tailors in the world presenting their styles to the audience of press and buyers: Panico, Cifonelli, Edward Sexton, Richard Anderson, Liverano & Liverano, and Anderson & Sheppard.The six … > Read more
 Everything seems to be happening at once at the moment. Next week the Permanent Style magazines should be here, which is probably the most exciting thing. On Monday we held our first Gathering dinner, which everyone seemed to really enjoy. And … > Read more
I’ve been pleased to see that suede has enjoyed something of a renaissance in recent years. Italians like Loro Piana have always done it well – often in a classic Italian mix of brown suede and grey cashmere – but … > Read more
 My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items … > Read more
  For the reader who commented that my pieces on Cifonelli tend towards the emotional, I apologise in advance. This is a beautiful, beautiful coat, and one of the finest things I have ever worn.Right, that’s over. Down to details. This is … > Read more
 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine … > Read more
 The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors.But a reader comment … > Read more
Read my one-day guide to bespoke operators in Paris in the latest article for Essence Lifestyle. Pictured, Pierre Corthay in typically playful mood.
This is probably the busiest week of the year. I tend to avoid the fashion shows, but there are now some great tailoring events in the calendar – including The Rake’s party at Claridge’s on Sunday night and the English … > Read more
A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in … > Read more
Lorenzo Cifonelli made me this beautiful suit at the beginning of the year, and I’ve meaning to write about it ever since.  He has cut two jackets for me in the past, a pale-grey cashmere DB and a green tweed … > Read more
My Chittleborough & Morgan navy suit was finally ready last month, and here are the pictures. I use the shot of the back at top because it is the only one that demonstrates the superb fit Joe and his team … > Read more
A couple of months ago Lorenzo Cifonelli asked me if I could introduce him to Joe Morgan next time Lorenzo was in London. Perhaps, he asked, we could even have lunch together. Finally – last Friday – we managed to … > Read more
Dear Simon,I was talking with a local bespoke tailor to sound out what they offer and how much handwork goes into their garments. Obviously everything is struck and cut by hand on premises, but he told me that the main … > Read more
There are very few bespoke tailors I would have faith in to explore an entirely new style or new medium. They include Lorenzo Cifonelli, Davide Taub and Rubinacci (Luca plus cutter). Many more, although highly innovative, tend to make within … > Read more

I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style.Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted, notch lapel. Nice and simple. Cloth … > Read more
 Following the post earlier in the week comparing English tailors that I have used, below are those from the rest of the world. As before, links are to blog posts with more details on the various tailors, and pictures. If … > Read more
  French tailor Smalto is not talked about much by the bespoke enthusiasts of the world. Yet it is the second-biggest bespoke operation in France (after Cifonelli), has a great history – having been established by Francesco Smalto in 1962 … > Read more
Dear Mr CromptonMy name is Francisco Gomez, from Colombia. I recently stumbled upon your blog and have become an avid reader of it, since I have always loved all things related to clothing, accessories etc.I am currently in the process … > Read more
The most formal suit combination for a modern man is a navy suit, white shirt and silver tie. When that tie is a woven like a Macclesfield, it is a classic wedding combination and much more suitable to being married … > Read more
Incotex trousersDear Simon,I have a couple of questions on trousers which I haven’t seen you address. First, you said in a post a while ago that side straps should be positioned on the waistband seam, not the waistband itself, to … > Read more
No visit to Paris would be complete without dropping in on Lorenzo Cifonelli and seeing what weird and wonderful things his mind has inflicted on tailoring recently.First up was the yak jacket. I wrote about this back in February on … > Read more
Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the … > Read more
These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, … > Read more
A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles.Recently we have had posts … > Read more
Cifonelli of Paris makes some of the most beautiful tailoring I’ve ever seen. I thought a post, therefore, on the details of a jacket rather than me rambling on about the technical stuff. Above, the broad lapel of the double-breasted, … > Read more
I love Lorenzo Cifonelli’s constant innovation in his menswear designs. Some I like more than others, but I love the embroidery of the Japanese symbol for love on the lapel of this grey jacket. I’d go for a bit of … > Read more
At last, after many rounds of correspondence by email, Hugo and I had a chance to meet at Anderson & Sheppard last week. Hugo was over in London for a couple of days, touring the Savile Row houses for the … > Read more
Cifonelli Parisian tailors tend to be located on the first floor of big mansion blocks. Savile Row tailors are more likely to be on the ground floor of a terraced house, with workrooms underneath. Though certainly a generalisation, this is … > Read more
  You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue … > Read more
I was in Paris last week visiting Cifonelli for an article to appear in The Rake. It was good to spend some more time with Lorenzo hearing about the history of the firm and his grandfather’s move to Paris (below). … > Read more
A reader commented that the way he spots a good bespoke suit is to look under the lapel and look for the little pinpricks that betray hand padding. This does indeed show where the tailor has come through the suit … > Read more
A column this week on GQ by Permanent Style compares the structure and styles of British and French tailors. Full article here.Also, see separate comment piece on GQ, this time on the Golden Shears, here. A previous piece, on the … > Read more
I’m seriously impressed with this tweed jacket from Cifonelli. The style is nice, with a mix of traditional and original detailing. But having put that together with Lorenzo, it was what I expected. Perhaps more surprising, and certainly more impressive, … > Read more
As you might have sensed in a recent post on Parisian tailors Cifonelli, I was rather taken with Lorenzo’s stylistic details. That led to a commission for a Harris tweed jacket including his slash pockets, five-button front up to the … > Read more
This is a guest post from the friends of Permanent Style, parisiangentleman.comIn 2003, you and your cousin Massimo took control of the family business after starting in the workshop in 1993. Have your customers changed over the years? Of course. … > Read more
This is a guest post from the friends of Permanent Style, Legendary tailors Cifonelli have an exceptional story to tell. Unlike most of their peers around the world, the house was founded in 1880 yet remains entirely in the … > Read more