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Brand: Elia Caliendo

  This pale, oatmeal-coloured cashmere is my new favourite sports-jacket material.When men are picking colours for sports jackets, their second choice (after the obviousness of navy) is usually grey. Which can be great, in: a rougher, preppy herringbone to go with … > Read more
  There are many ways in which you can make a sartorial outfit look younger or more modern. Extremes are always wrong: very short jackets, big puffy shoulders. They just look trendy, for a bit. But aside from the extremes, I would … > Read more
   A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels … > Read more
  If there is one question men ask more than any other, it is how to wear a jacket with jeans.Behind this usually lies a desire to dress up an outfit without appearing too up-tight.Friends in the creative or digital industries … > Read more
  Four things contribute most to the formality of an outfit: shine, darkness, contrast and desaturation.We see all four of them in formal outfits such as black tie. Dark black or midnight blue is contrasted against stark white. There is virtually … > Read more
  OK, let’s break this down. There are four major choices of colour here:Trousers: greenJacket: tanTie: brownShirt: blueI put them deliberately in that order because that is the order in which they were chosen. Readers are familiar with my love of … > Read more
 This Caliendo hopsack blazer was completed earlier in the year and is now fast becoming the most useful item in my wardrobe.Just like the Solito cashmere blazer I had made for Autumn/Winter last year, it is thrown on with everything: … > Read more
 Walking along the River Tweed, wearing tweed that (is it just me?) is rather reminiscent of the colours of the landscape. Of course, it’s Harris tweed and we’re in the Borders, but it seems fitting nonetheless. Cloth suited to its … > Read more
 One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done, quicker, by a newer machine – they … > Read more
 These past few days I’ve been in Madrid, speaking at the Aristocrata club meeting and seeing a few of the tailors and shoemakers I know (Langa, Reillo, Calvo de Mora, Norman Vilalta).  I invited Elia Caliendo and Luca Avitabile of … > Read more
The question I get more than any other – from both readers and friends – is how to wear separate or ‘odd’ jackets. Indeed, what differentiates an odd jacket from a suit jacket in the first place. There are two … > Read more
I’ve been wearing in my Levi’s bespoke jeans gradually over the past few weeks, and the raw denim is settling in well. For those unfamiliar with raw denim, it is favoured by those passionate about indigo twill for the way … > Read more
  This Neapolitan tweed jacket – made recently for me by Elia Caliendo – is perhaps the perfect update of an English classic.  Tweed is a wonderful material – tough, soft and highly wind- and water-resistant. It makes a great … > Read more
A few of the pictures of me from Pitti this year. Above, in brown tweed Caliendo jacket (more on that in a couple of weeks), Anderson & Sheppard flannels and Ralph Lauren madder-like orange handkerchief.  Tweed such as this goes … > Read more
A reader asked what I was wearing at the dinner of Parisian Gentlemen last week. Fortunately, a profile photo was taken that day at the intellectual property conference I was speaking at – the reason I was in Paris in … > Read more
Last week I was profiled in a video series for Harrod’s, giving insights into the construction of Kiton and Tom Ford suits, among others. It should be available in a couple of weeks, coinciding with the launch of a new … > Read more
Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers.I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. … > Read more
I’ve recently begun a column for How to Spend It, the luxury supplement to the Financial Times. The first post, on Neapolitan tailoring, can be seen here.Photo: Luke Carby
 Following the post earlier in the week comparing English tailors that I have used, below are those from the rest of the world. As before, links are to blog posts with more details on the various tailors, and pictures. If … > Read more
I’ve seen quite a few Permanent Style Tweed pieces going through Graham Browne in recent weeks. As my Caliendo jacket gets ready for completion, this is a call out to readers to send in pictures of their tweed made up. … > Read more
I love Gennaro’s cutting board, by the window looking out into the squareThis was the second fitting on a Solito jacket in Naples. Luigi, the son, was there the first time earlier in the year, and as he speaks some … > Read more
After months of indecision, I finally decided to have my length of Permanent Style tweed made up by Elia Caliendo in Naples. Every time I have been to Graham Browne recently, I see another length being made up for a … > Read more
Trying to look natural while eating. Which is impossibleThe linen suit shown here is my most recent commission, from the sterling outfit that is now Kent Haste & Lachter. There is a blog; there is a group photo on the … > Read more
Pictured at the MTBA party last week, this is the finished jacket from Neapolitan tailor Elia Caliendo. Readers of The Rake online will have read previous posts on Elia, looking at both the man himself and an analysis of the … > Read more
Some hopefully enlightening and entertaining posts on The Rake, including the French chestnut tanneries of JM Weston (above), the cute patch pockets of Elia Caliendo (below) and the making of a Globe-Trotter suitcase.
A Stefano Bemer bespoke solePlease remember, loyal readers, that I am now writing every week – indeed, twice a week – for The Rake online, which is expanding into a great source for international artisanal articles.Recently we have had posts … > Read more