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Brand: Sartoria Vergallo

 My last ‘reflections on bespoke’ post back in January was very popular. Readers seemed to respond to the assessment of bespoke commissions with the wisdom of hindsight, and I have to say I sympathise.Here, then, are five more, with the items … > Read more
  Last year a reader commented – quite rightly – that there is a tendency here to cover freshly received suits/shirts/shoes, but not follow up on them later, when they have bedded in.He was right also to say that this is a deficiency. You always know more about … > Read more
 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I would combine … > Read more
At the end of last year I began a project to create a versatile top coat with Sartoria Vergallo – the Italian tailor based in Varese that I have used twice in the past, for a navy cashmere suit and … > Read more
Navy and grey are the kings of colour. They should be your first choice for almost every item of clothing – suit, jacket, trousers, overcoat, knitwear, even ties. Navy in particular for jackets and ties; mid-grey or charcoal for trousers. … > Read more
Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo is one of those tailors that is always interested in new ideas. He was intrigued, therefore, by the bells and whistles I suggested putting on this houndstooth jacket we made last year. I wanted, primarily, … > Read more
 Dear Simon,Hello and congratulations on your blog’s recent milestone!I have a question regarding cashmere suits.I am thinking of buying a suit that is 100% cashmere.  Now I have come across many suits that are wool/cashmere blends, but not many that … > Read more
 Following the post earlier in the week comparing English tailors that I have used, below are those from the rest of the world. As before, links are to blog posts with more details on the various tailors, and pictures. If … > Read more
Gianni Cleopazzo of Sartoria Vergallo was talking to me recently about an old-fashioned style of shirt he makes for a couple of customers – the ‘pettegola’. This is a strip of shirt cloth that is attached to the back tail … > Read more
These are shots from the inside of an old jacket made by the French bespoke tailor Henri Urban. A customer of Gianni at Sartoria Vergallo brought it in to show him and to see if he could copy the design, … > Read more
I received the final suit from Vergallo a couple of weeks ago, and am pleased with the results. I think the most pertinent thing to say by why of analysis is that the cut is very soft – perhaps softer … > Read more
Some pictures here of the second fitting of a navy suit from Sartoria Vergallo, in a wool/cashmere mix. Feeling much better now – as they say, the first fitting is for the tailor and the second is for you.I can … > Read more
There are a few provincial bespoke tailors in the UK, but not many. Italy has more, though again far fewer than there used to be. The advantage of a provincial tailor is normally a quiet preservation of tradition; and price.While … > Read more